In the case of Giles Coren's purple-tinged prose, the Times subs were right anyway. He complains that by interfering with the onanistic euphuism of his final paragraph, the subs ruined the money shot. Removing an indefinite article led to a premature conclusion. There was no firm climax for Coren, but the whimper of an unstressed syllable.
In the letter, Coren lets the Times, and now us, know that Soho is associated with sex. So the whole thing about "wondering where to go for a nosh" was very important. Should they ever resurrect Round the Horne, I'll be sure to point them in your direction.
The first commenter at Guido Fawkes (and no doubt commenters at other places, I didn't look that hard) pointed out that if dear sensitive Giles wants his glorious copy to never feel the cold caress of a sub-editor, he should give up writing for the Thunderer and just post reviews to a blog. He can be secure in the knowledge that no-one will ever cause him to be seen finishing a review with the indignity of an unstressed syllable.
I can just imagine the subs now doing all they can to ensure that Coren's promise is never broken. He will always go out with a bang. In the meantime, maybe the Guardian's Media Monkey can expect a spanking from the pishkeh of epistles.